What Happened at Haute Couture Week 2023?
While temperatures in Paris fell below or near freezing, editors, celebrities, and influencers wrapped themselves in balaclavas, blanket scarves, and big coats in preparation for Haute Couture Week, one of the most opulent affairs on the fashion calendar.
There was uproar at Schiaparelli, a tribute to legendary American-born French performer Josephine Baker at Dior, and the return of Casey Cadwallader to the Mugler runway after a three-year sabbatical.
Despite the fact that Cadwallader’s collection was ready-to-wear, the high-energy show was reminiscent of Thierry Mugler’s performance-driven runways in the 1980s and 1990s.
“It was a ballsy decision to display during couture week,” Cadwallader told CNN after the runway presentation, adding: “Mugler is not to be quiet. Mugler wants to be bold and exciting again, to have drama, and to do something iconic.”
Scroll down to read about the most talked-about couture runway moments.
When Kylie Jenner’s lion-head gown went viral, Haute Couture Week got off to a roaring start. The hyper-realistic beheaded lion was part of Daniel Roseberry’s latest Schiaparelli collection (Irina Shayk wore a version of Jenner’s dress just moments after guests took their seats).
The company also showcased two more predator-themed items on the runway, inspired by Dante’s “Inferno,” a 14th-century poem: a lion, leopard, and she-wolf.
Shalom Harlow wore a column dress with a snow leopard print, while Naomi Campbell donned a glossy black coat with a projecting wolf’s head.
However, because the looks were so convincingly created, many people took to social media to express their displeasure.
The confusion was intended, according to Roseberry, who wrote in the show notes, “Mimicry (is that a real lion?) becomes its own type of Surrealism in this collection, such that you’re never quite sure who made the picture you’re looking at—was its nature?”
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Subverting Dress Codes at Viktor and Rolf
There were upside-down dresses at Viktor and Rolf, but it was Doja Cat’s gender-bending mustached outfit that got everyone talking.
Doja Cat responded to online criticism for not wearing lashes with her viral head-to-toe crystal look at Schiaparelli by showing up to the show with glued falsies over her brows, above her lip, and on her chin. She joked on her Instagram, “If lashes are what you all want, then lashes are what you’ll get.”
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The Supers Returned to the Mugler Stage
Casey Cadwallader returned to the runway after a three-year hiatus with an extravaganza inspired by Thierry Mugler’s flamboyant couture shows.
Although the ready-to-wear collection was not on the official calendar, it was a spectacular end to the season as supermodels Irina Shayk, Shalom Harlow, and Amber Valetta walked alongside 90s Mugler muses Debra Shaw and Eva Herzigova, closing the show by posing in front of the pit of photographers, just as they would have done in the 90s.
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